Goodmans Magnum K Refurb and Modification (part 2)

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

It used to be NVA AP20 not sure what it is now.

[Ronin]

Motorboating as Doc says... What amp are you using Ronin ?

It's a Leak Stereo 30+,it was handed down to me.I used to have an old steel NVA AP20 but the phono stage packed-up and i didn't have the dosh to get a new one, so i give it to my mate.He was so impressed with it he bought an NVA phono 1 to match it.

My mates got some old speakers he doesn't use,he's popping them in later.I'll try the amplifier with them and report back.

Cheers

Ronin

[Ronin]

Tried my mates speakers and the "fluttering" noise is still there.It's actually something to do with the volume control or the switches on the Leak amplifier, because there is a lot of crackling when turned, but then it disappeared.. Not sure why this is happening now,I guess it's sods law (and the fact that it's about 50yrs old ).

Anyhow,I'm reluctant to try the amplifier again with my Goodmans speakers.So,I'll either get it repaired (if it's worth it) or I'll pick up a very cheap amplifier when funds permit (birthday approaches ),-suggestions welcome.

This really is becoming a high work load with questions you can work out for yourself.

Doc,I'm very grateful for your help,but please don't feel obligated .I appreciate you must be busy and respect there is more important things in life than sorting out my Hi-Fi troubles.I can assure you, if I could work it out myself I would.I would like to think that I am quite an independent person,but electronics is so far from my profession, that I must admit ,I am a complete novice.If you feel my questions are not justified then I will have to go and find another forum,because I definitely don't want to feel like I'm an being an hindrance to anyone.

Ronin

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

It is part of the training old boy, before you ask a question have confidence that you can find the answer yourself. It is in our archive, it is in your ears, your brain, your energy and your common sense. It is pointless me doing this if you continue asking the same question as you lack confidence in the answers you already have.

A Sifu has a right to be irritated.

[_D_S_J_R_]

I'm very fond of the Stereo 30 and 70 and was surprised how good a Stereo 70 sounded back in the 80's at 15 years old when the NAD3020 was still in it's heyday. You know what I'm going to say though - UK amps of this period didn't have the luxury of decent high tolerance components that the Japanese had in the 70's onwards. I know the Leaks were good basic designs, but I do think a major service will be necessary.

Get some Servisol switch cleaner-lubricant from your local Maplin (CPC are great but now need a £10 order, but P&P is free then) and give the controls and switchgear a good but careful squirt, jiggling or rotating said controls. Hopefully, this will help.

[Ronin]

Get some Servisol switch cleaner-lubricant from your local Maplin (CPC are great but now need a £10 order, but P&P is free then) and give the controls and switchgear a good but careful squirt, jiggling or rotating said controls. Hopefully, this will help.

Thanks,I will definitely try some Servisol that you've recommended.The leak Stereo 30+ is quite "sweet" sounding and surprising detailed to my ears..The old NVA AP20 had more grip and was better dynamically .The leek is kind of " mellow" but still enjoyable.

Thanks for taking an interest in my question.

Ronin

[istari_knight]

I can only echo Dave's opinion on this, it almost certainly will require an overhaul. Fingers crossed the Servisol gets it up & running for the time being though eh.

[Ronin]

Thanks both.

Applied Servisol to all switches/control knobs giving them a good rotating back and forth as i went along, "wow" what a difference,all fluttering/crackling gone Thank you so much for the advice

I can only echo Dave's opinion on this, it almost certainly will require an overhaul

The Leak was overhauled about a year ago, from a guy in London (apparently the manufacturer used this guy for repairs when there was a backlog ).

First impressions of the speakers is a mixed bag ( this is the first time I've heard the speakers which are now lined with steel plate,new Moral Tweeter and no crossover,just a Capacitor on tweeter and mid drivers).The positives are speed and detail,the negatives, there is a lack of bass quantity/quality and the highs are a Little to brightly lit ( I think istari mentioned they may sound a bit bright). Due to this balance, I'm finding the overhaul presentation rather cold.

Music that I played.

Al Hirt,Joni Mitchell,Peter Green,Yello,John Hiatt,David & David,Jean Mitchel Jarre,Davy Spillane

Next,I'm going to apply some Bison-kit to the bass and mid driver cones .I'm still waiting for the Plastidip to arrive.

I'm really enjoying this experience,it's boosted my confidence and it's a good feeling to be in control of trying to achieve the sound that I want from my speakers (instead of having to swap and change).

Will report back ASAP

Ronin

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

The tweeter needs a padding resistor in series with the capacitor, do that first. Start with 10ohms 5 or 7watt wirewounds and move up in about 6 ohm increment until the brightly lit is more natural then it is time for cone doping.

[Ronin]

Thanks Doc.I did hold fire, I read through some of the threads on here were you've already mentioned a padding resistor, apart from the values,so I'm grateful you've responded with the necessary extra information and advice.

I've sent for some 10ohms 5 watt wirewounds, but I can't find 6 ohms only 5.6,are these ok and do i need the same wattage as the 10ohms.

Ronin