Oehlbach

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slinger
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Oehlbach

Unread post by slinger »

As a lot of us know the quality of the Oehlbach XXL MasterClock I just thought I'd mention that their website is worth keeping an eye on for bargains. The XXL MasterClock is back on offer at €74.00, and their Jitterbug-type-thingy, the "Pure Clock" is down to €29.23, and for €120.00 the "XXL Phono PreAmp Ultra" might be worth a look if you've got a MM second system, or similar. Obviously I haven't tried them (apart from the XXL Master Clock) but Oehlbach certainly has a good rep so experimenting might be worthwhile. https://www.oehlbach.com/en/
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Fretless (Sat Aug 15, 2020 4:16 pm)
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Re: Oehlbach

Unread post by Fretless »

That cheap USB cable of theirs is also a steal at 7 euros.

https://www.oehlbach.com/en/audio-equip ... er=D1C9342
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slinger (Sat Aug 15, 2020 7:11 pm)
NVA: P50sa - SSP - A40 - LS6 - Cube2 - BMU
Digits: E-Medic ST-M PC + Volumio + AQ Jitterbug
DAC: TeraDak V4.5 Chameleon CD: Cambridge CXC
USB: Oehlbach XXL Masterclock + DH Labs Mirage
Ethernet: Silent Angel Bonn N8 + AQ Cinnamon
Cans: AQ NightHawk Carbon + MF XCAN v3

ruffra51
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Re: Oehlbach

Unread post by ruffra51 »

Purchased the Oehlbach XXL Masterclock after reading good reviews on this forum. Glad I did as its stop me purchasing a New Dac.

I have found improvements in low level detail and a better grip of the music from my Flac files so very happy with results . In terms of USB cabling is it recommended to have a "better" usb cable on the input from pc to XXL clock or on the output from the XXL. I have noticed differences in presentation with input usb cable but not experimented with the output apart from trying a usb splitter to two Dacs with bad results !! So any experience with members ??

Also now I have noticed an improvement in music performance with the XXl is it worth getting a 7v Linear power supply to replace the switch mode unit supplied with the unit.

I am using Teac UD 503 and NT 503 Dacs. Any recommendations to a new poster appreciated. Thanks
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karatestu (Wed Sep 16, 2020 5:59 am) • Fretless (Wed Sep 16, 2020 7:43 am)

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Re: Oehlbach

Unread post by karatestu »

Welcome to the forum :dance: Glad you have heard improvements. I have no experience of this product but good linear psu's usually make a worthwhile improvement over generic switched supplies.

Somebody here will surely be able to point you in the direction of something suitable. As an aside, I noticed a big jump in sq when I replaced the master clock in my cdp and gave it it's own little psu.
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ruffra51 (Wed Sep 16, 2020 3:37 pm)
DIY inspired by Richard "The Doc" Dunn RIP

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Re: Oehlbach

Unread post by Fretless »

Hi Ruffra51 and welcome to HFS.

I am a big fan of the XXL Masterclock but haven't yet thought about changing the power supply for a linear one. Good idea for a future upgrade possibility.

As for USB cables - they make a noticeable difference in SQ and are worth investigating. I did a USB cable shoot-out here on the forum not long ago, checking several different links from the Masterclock to DAC.

The link from the PC to Masterclock is also important. The Oehlbach regenerates and resynchronises the data stream it receives. But if that has already been distorted by jitter then you get a 'rubbish in, rubbish out' situation.

Ideally you need a 'good' cable from PC to reclocker and a 'better' link from there to the DAC.

There are several excellent USB audio cables available like: AudioQuest Carbon, Wireworld Starlight 7 or DH Labs Silver Sonic.

Recent thoughts on this exact subject have prompted me to order a second DH Labs Mirage USB link for my installation to run from PC to Masterclock (sublime -sounding cable currently at 40% discount from a webshop in Canada). I will certainly be reporting on that when it arrives.

Another tweak is the use of an AudioQuest Jitterbug (or 2) in the output from the PC. This is a USB-plug that filters electronic noise out of the connection and stabilises the USB output section of the host device.

Loads of things to play around with here.
Have fun! :dance:
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ruffra51 (Wed Sep 16, 2020 3:37 pm)
NVA: P50sa - SSP - A40 - LS6 - Cube2 - BMU
Digits: E-Medic ST-M PC + Volumio + AQ Jitterbug
DAC: TeraDak V4.5 Chameleon CD: Cambridge CXC
USB: Oehlbach XXL Masterclock + DH Labs Mirage
Ethernet: Silent Angel Bonn N8 + AQ Cinnamon
Cans: AQ NightHawk Carbon + MF XCAN v3

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Re: Oehlbach

Unread post by CN211276 »

Fretless wrote:
Wed Sep 16, 2020 7:42 am


Recent thoughts on this exact subject have prompted me to order a second DH Labs Mirage USB link for my installation to run from PC to Masterclock (sublime -sounding cable currently at 40% discount from a webshop in Canada). I will certainly be reporting on that when it arrives.

From my experiences of using the same make and spec of cable for the whole length of the chain you won't be disapointed.
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Fretless (Wed Sep 16, 2020 9:14 am) • ruffra51 (Wed Sep 16, 2020 3:37 pm)
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Re: Oehlbach

Unread post by ruffra51 »

Many Thanks for the feedback on the two questions posed. I am thinking of upgrading the cable between the Teac Ud 503 to Masterclock . Currently using a hand built one made with silver wires from some Ebay seller based in Poland about 5 years ago. It always sounded a bit fuller and smoother than the regular Chord and Furutech ADL ones. However as suggested I will probably go for another Neotech Pure Silver NEUB-1020 when funds permit . I am feeding the Clock with a NEUB 1020 at the moment.
For the Teac Nt503 I need a 5m Length so cannot afford to go exotic on that. I am using a Chinese Ebay sellers cable which is described as using Silver-Plated α (Alpha) OCC Conductors ?? I was Surprised how better the sound was when I replaced a reasonable USB Cable with it last year and for £45 delivered not a bad deal. Sometimes you get lucky with this type of purchase.

I will look into a Linear Power Supply will a 7v 25w one be enough do people think ?? Will also look at a Jitterbug as well.

Many Thanks Again

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Re: Oehlbach

Unread post by karatestu »

It should tell you on the switch mode psu (you may need a magnifying glass to read it) that came with it how many amps you need . I wouldn't go lower than the supplied unit.
DIY inspired by Richard "The Doc" Dunn RIP

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