Ignore the last post as it is - I understand what you have said nowkaratestu wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 5:00 pmSo do you think I am daft to remove it ?Dr Bunsen Honeydew wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 4:13 pm The main reason to do it is mains Ov / earth is not always, and can inject noise from a potential. This is why some people create a true earth. Very important for Radio Hams in the old days, maybe even now.
KISS
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Re: KISS
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Re: KISS
I think you are bonkers but I like bonkers people who TRY!!! not the bonkers bullshitters. Do what you want it is only a bit of smoke if it goes wrong, and ask Colin Wonfor, us oldies are brought up on the smell of burnt out resistors, it is part of the path to the hi-fi force my dear Padawan. We all have to build our own lightsabre.
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Re: KISS
We were taught never to put a power earth and a signal earth on the same earth point. As you say an earth point may not actually be at earth potential.Dr Bunsen Honeydew wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 4:13 pm The main reason to do it is mains Ov / earth is not always, and can inject noise from a potential. This is why some people create a true earth. Very important for Radio Hams in the old days, maybe even now.
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Re: KISS
Bonkers......yes I suppose so. I always thought the more interesting people in this world were a little bonkers My lightsabre is coming along very nicely thanks.Dr Bunsen Honeydew wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 6:00 pm I think you are bonkers but I like bonkers people who TRY!!! not the bonkers bullshitters. Do what you want it is only a bit of smoke if it goes wrong, and ask Colin Wonfor, us oldies are brought up on the smell of burnt out resistors, it is part of the path to the hi-fi force my dear Padawan. We all have to build our own lightsabre.
Having read a little about earth lift resistors as suggested by hillsanddalesrover, I am of the opinion that the resistor is only for curing hum issues(earth loops). I don't have any hum issues. My whole system 0V is now floating and not connected to mains safety earth. I don't want to create a dangerous situation and any metal chassis/enclosure parts are still connected to safety earth via the mains plugs. There isn't much metal work in my system at the moment and there will be none when I get it all finished - wooden casing. There still will be metal heatsinks of course, wood is not such a good thermal conductor
I remember years ago that it was suggested that the mains filter in a Linn Lingo was dumping all sorts of crap back into the mains which made equipment with unfiltered mains (Naim) sound worse. The mod to remedy that was to remove the mains filter in the Lingo - which I did with a dremel and a hammer Can't remember now what difference it made but people were reporting better sound as a result.
So if this filtered crap goes back into mains earth then my floating signal 0V can only be a good thing right ? I am probably completely on the wrong track here.
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Re: KISS
Its at www.nvahifi.co.uk link about nva. It was 1992 in Taiwan and the classII wasn't fully initiates then, but it contains the basis of where I am now. I get a little embarrassed about the screw thing now, but I have a good excuse now as they mess up the classII compliance unless recessed or non conductive.
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Re: KISS
Here you go - enjoy the truths the lie within.
https://www.nvahifi.co.uk/nva-philosophy/
https://www.nvahifi.co.uk/richard-dunn-interview/
Alfi.
I am in the hi-fi trade.
Status: Manufacturer.
Company Name: Analogue innovation.
Contact: a_innovation@btinternet.com
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Re: KISS
I have been reading those articles every month or so just to remind myself of the contents therein.
I have recently been interested in the smoothing capacitor part. Not going too large and listening until the next size up makes no difference. I had never thought of doing it this way but then you have to know what ripple sounds like. Going up and down in values a few times would probably train the ear to spot it but I would guess the ripple would mask low level detail.
I have recently been interested in the smoothing capacitor part. Not going too large and listening until the next size up makes no difference. I had never thought of doing it this way but then you have to know what ripple sounds like. Going up and down in values a few times would probably train the ear to spot it but I would guess the ripple would mask low level detail.
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Re: KISS
A quick rough guide to bulk caps the maths is not bad but for us 50/100Hz humans
1A @ 10,000uf = 1V ripple i.e. 100,000uF =100mV and 1,000uF =10V as a rough guide it seems to work.
So with 20V RMS out at full power and 10,000uF you will see ripple as the output get close to the HT rails with a 1Amp load .
I hope this helps.
1A @ 10,000uf = 1V ripple i.e. 100,000uF =100mV and 1,000uF =10V as a rough guide it seems to work.
So with 20V RMS out at full power and 10,000uF you will see ripple as the output get close to the HT rails with a 1Amp load .
I hope this helps.
It can be done so imagine it.