HiFi Subjectivist ¦ Audio Forum ¦ NVA User Group

priceless?

savvypaul wrote: ↑Thu Dec 03, 2020 11:27 pm

karatestu wrote: ↑Thu Dec 03, 2020 8:28 pm They can't be better than no fuse

What price a 'no fuse' upgrade?

It depends what grade of 'no fuse' that we install.

Given that many Hi-Fi systems have multiple fuses a "no fuse" modification could be extensive. A 4 way extension lead has two fuses and the plug on the item has one so that makes three then there is the fuse/CB in the consumer unit and the suppliers fuse by the meter. One of he fuses in the extension lead could easily be dispensed with but the supplier fuses?

Remember the fuse is there to protect the supply not the appliance.

Geoff.R.G wrote: ↑Fri Dec 04, 2020 11:30 am Given that many Hi-Fi systems have multiple fuses a "no fuse" modification could be extensive. A 4 way extension lead has two fuses and the plug on the item has one so that makes three then there is the fuse/CB in the consumer unit and the suppliers fuse by the meter. One of he fuses in the extension lead could easily be dispensed with but the supplier fuses?

Remember the fuse is there to protect the supply not the appliance.

We were referring to NVA amps not having internal fuses...and then applying a liberal dose of facetiousness to take the piss out of £155 fuses.

I tried fuse size copper bar replacements once.

Can't say I heard any difference over a standard 13A fuse. I took them out quickly in deference to my home insurance company.

My house is all Schuko sockets - no fuses.

Vive la Brexit !

I've just done a cheap version of the cartridge isolation principle. It cost me about 1p.
A piece of Black-Tack the size of a pea was placed on top of my cartridge.
Cart was then pressed into place on the underside of my SME 3009 head-shell and lined up with the mounting holes.
Insert bolts and tighten evenly until the goo squirts through the head-shell perforations around the mounting points
Remove the bolts and the cartridge remains stuck fast to the head-shell, with a layer of Black-Tack between it and the cartridge body.
Bolts are then removed so as not to bypass the damping layer.. Excellent result. Yes. Believe it or not, it works a treat
Vanishingly low surface noise, and wider frequency range from the cartridge. Presentation solid and secure. And no, I'm not kidding.

Doc used to glue em on

karatestu wrote: ↑Thu Feb 04, 2021 9:22 pm Doc used to glue em on

That fits.
SME used to supply a little sachet of ‘cartridge bonding compound’ with the Series 2 and the Series 3 arms. I had a S2 in 1979 but never used the goop, as the ‘tighten your bolts until the allen key bends’ bullshit had just started to take off and like everyone else I swallowed it hook, line and sinker.

ARA and the Doc were way ahead of their time.

SteveTheShadow wrote: ↑Thu Feb 04, 2021 10:00 pm

karatestu wrote: ↑Thu Feb 04, 2021 9:22 pm Doc used to glue em on

That fits.
SME used to supply a little sachet of ‘cartridge bonding compound’ with the Series 2 and the Series 3 arms. I had a S2 in 1979 but never used the goop, as the ‘tighten your bolts until the allen key bends’ bullshit had just started to take off and like everyone else I swallowed it hook, line and sinker.

Looks like ARA and the Doc were way ahead of their time.

I have had my SME 3009 S II Imp since 1977 (bought new) and it didn't come with and compound, it isn't still in the box either.