Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

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karatestu
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

Unread post by karatestu »

Adventures in wacky mechanical frequency attenuation techniques

Not so wacky this but here is a dodgy pic of the back of my bass cabs.I didn't want to move them and with only 8" to back wall i just shoved the camera round the back and hoped for the best.

6" deep foam (recycled of course) which i cut a couple of centimetres oversized so it would stay in place and the slight pressure would seal the edges to the cabinet walls.

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It's doing a good job :dance:
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karatestu
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

Unread post by karatestu »

Now we are getting to the wacky bits.

:character-jestercolor:

Doping of the cone to attenuate the higher frequencies usually involves spraying with plastidip, various amounts of contact adhesive (bison kit) or other known to work products (on paper cones). Blu tack is pretty wacky but my use of it is nothing new, plenty of others have done it before with good results.

I got to thinking about up firing drivers and other ways of attenuating the higher frequencies. As it is facing upwards and gravity does it's thing then why does the doping have to actually stick to cone ? How about this .........................













Image


:laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: I must say i laughed aloud when the thought first popped in my head. I have surpassed myself again. I crumbled up a piece of polystyrene sheet in to the small balls and put it on the cone of my new 5.25" driver. It has had an effect and maybe the answer to all my prayers :lol:

It weighs bugger all, doesn't stick to the cone and does attenuate the higher frequencies. It's quite fun when a loud bass noise comes along watching the beads jump up and down like popping popcorn. Only problem is containing it. If the driver was mounted from the inside of the cabinet then a piece of grille cloth over the top on the outside of the cab would do the trick.

Amazing :guiness;
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karatestu
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

Unread post by karatestu »

At the volumes i am playing at the beads are staying on the driver. A few go on the surround occasionally but the sound is sweet as.
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

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How does it affect the T&S parameters when the beads are not in contact with the cone at all times ????? and they are moving around a little (jiggling) at low volume and on music with not much bass content. :think:
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

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It does illuminate how the cone produces much more excursion at low frequencies
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

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More experiments.

I cut some shorter legs for my upper enclosure when i went back to front firing bass as i did not need as much of a gap between the cabs. They are 10 cm now rather than the 20 cm of before.

I had some pieces of foam from a broken air mattress so plugged all four gaps with bits.

Image

The beauty of these mechanical things i am trying is that removing is easy and quick for comparisons.

Having a listen now :think:
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

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What other materials can i try as well as polystyrene beads ?

Liquids ? Probably not a good idea :lol:
Kiln dried sand - maybe :think:
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

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I need to lower the value of the cap on the tweeters to below 1 uF. Currently two 3.3uf Russian paper in oil wired in series to give 1.65 uF. I sense there is too much overlap between the tweeters and mid bass. It has become more evident since i added another 5 " mid bass. Well to be honest i said further up thread that i needed a lower value cap as the sums told me.

Thing is if i am adding one or two more 5" mid bass drivers then i need to buy some cheap caps to experiment with and then buy the expensive Russian PIO caps when everything is finalised
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

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After doubling up the thickness of the open cell foam that acts as the rear panel to six inches i could not resist the urge to put the bass cab back in to up firing position to see what effect this has.

Well i am over the moon that this arrangement is now favourite again :roll: It does a few things that i really wanted to persevere with. It keeps all the motion of the bass producing drivers in phase with the floor as the Doc would say. Also it keeps more to the semi omni spirit and the acoustic centre of the drivers are more or less the same distance from my ears. If i double up the number of 5 inchers the acoustic centres wont be able to stay as is. In a simple semi omni design like the nva cubes then the tweeter is always a fair bit closer to the ears than the up firing mid bass and is never a problem. Maybe i am obsessing about this when i shouldn't.

Another thing is that if i have isobaric 12 inchers front firing then the back of the magnet of the rear driver will be close to the back panel (in order to avoid having the front driver protruding on the front panel). I wont be able to get much open cell foam behind it if i want to continue with the foam back panel. Up firing solves a few problems but then raises a few of it's own. It is the reason i keep going back to it. Determined to make it work :dance: and at the moment it is :guiness;
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7

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Put some more foam in the bass cabs :shock:

Now i have a thickness of 27 cm (10.5" in old money) so only about 4 cm space between where the foam starts and the rear of the bass drivers magnet.

Also changed the two 45 cm lengths of 17 mm deep soft wood that i had running under each side panel of the speaker. This gave a 17 mm gap at the front and back of the speaker for the back wave to come out of after it had passed through the foam. I just cut three little pieces off the strips 35 mm long to go in the front corners and one half way along the back.

I figured that would give better balance and now i have the 17 mm gap on all four sides of the bass cab at floor level.

Listening right now :epopc:
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