Hey Peter. So what have you done exactly ?Latteman wrote: ↑Thu Jul 15, 2021 6:36 pmAlthough our systems are very different I implement some of the ideas u post- I will agree placing tweeter pods over the mid bass does energise and promote the mid bass.karatestu wrote: ↑Mon Jul 12, 2021 3:20 pm Having listened to quite a few albums I can find nothing not to like about this experiment with tweeter pod directly above the mid bass. It certainly is not ideal because I have tweeters held in with tape that is wrinkled a bit, the tweeters are not all flush with the ring of the cut out at all points and the crappy wire cradle is not helping.
Even so it sounds bloody good. There are some changes that at first I could not get my head around. I don't know what is exactly going on but there is more fine detail on offer and spaciousness. No harshness at all that I have tuned in to yet but there are many more albums to test it with yet. It is a slightly more energetic presentation but not too far the wrong way.
Doc modding Marantz imperial 7
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7
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- CycleCoach (Thu Jul 15, 2021 7:34 pm)
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Denon DP47f; AT-VM95SH- RigB 9
GL-59; ARB uni pivot; AT- Signet mc
Nva phono mm/mc
Doug Self balanced Pre amp
Akai 4000DS mk2 R2R
Digital Sources- Argon Pi4 v2; IfI iUSB 3.0, Ifi Neo idsd Dac;
Tidal / Radio Paradise
Amplification Nva 300va mono blocks
Speakers Lii Audio F-15 in Open Baffle; Ls6
Weiduka AC8.8- for digital sources
Mini BMU for analog sources
Denon DP47f; AT-VM95SH- RigB 9
GL-59; ARB uni pivot; AT- Signet mc
Nva phono mm/mc
Doug Self balanced Pre amp
Akai 4000DS mk2 R2R
Digital Sources- Argon Pi4 v2; IfI iUSB 3.0, Ifi Neo idsd Dac;
Tidal / Radio Paradise
Amplification Nva 300va mono blocks
Speakers Lii Audio F-15 in Open Baffle; Ls6
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7
Very good Peter but you NEED to get them tweeters in a sphere
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7
Was thinking half sphere- the capacitors are in the tubes too- quite heavy for what it is
Analogue Source -
Denon DP47f; AT-VM95SH- RigB 9
GL-59; ARB uni pivot; AT- Signet mc
Nva phono mm/mc
Doug Self balanced Pre amp
Akai 4000DS mk2 R2R
Digital Sources- Argon Pi4 v2; IfI iUSB 3.0, Ifi Neo idsd Dac;
Tidal / Radio Paradise
Amplification Nva 300va mono blocks
Speakers Lii Audio F-15 in Open Baffle; Ls6
Weiduka AC8.8- for digital sources
Mini BMU for analog sources
Denon DP47f; AT-VM95SH- RigB 9
GL-59; ARB uni pivot; AT- Signet mc
Nva phono mm/mc
Doug Self balanced Pre amp
Akai 4000DS mk2 R2R
Digital Sources- Argon Pi4 v2; IfI iUSB 3.0, Ifi Neo idsd Dac;
Tidal / Radio Paradise
Amplification Nva 300va mono blocks
Speakers Lii Audio F-15 in Open Baffle; Ls6
Weiduka AC8.8- for digital sources
Mini BMU for analog sources
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7
Found this
Analogue Source -
Denon DP47f; AT-VM95SH- RigB 9
GL-59; ARB uni pivot; AT- Signet mc
Nva phono mm/mc
Doug Self balanced Pre amp
Akai 4000DS mk2 R2R
Digital Sources- Argon Pi4 v2; IfI iUSB 3.0, Ifi Neo idsd Dac;
Tidal / Radio Paradise
Amplification Nva 300va mono blocks
Speakers Lii Audio F-15 in Open Baffle; Ls6
Weiduka AC8.8- for digital sources
Mini BMU for analog sources
Denon DP47f; AT-VM95SH- RigB 9
GL-59; ARB uni pivot; AT- Signet mc
Nva phono mm/mc
Doug Self balanced Pre amp
Akai 4000DS mk2 R2R
Digital Sources- Argon Pi4 v2; IfI iUSB 3.0, Ifi Neo idsd Dac;
Tidal / Radio Paradise
Amplification Nva 300va mono blocks
Speakers Lii Audio F-15 in Open Baffle; Ls6
Weiduka AC8.8- for digital sources
Mini BMU for analog sources
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7
Those speakers are staring at me.
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7
Not seen these cute little things before. Never heard of Davone Audio before either. Typical Scandinavian design.
Some very interesting designs by this company https://www.davoneaudio.com/index.html
Some very interesting designs by this company https://www.davoneaudio.com/index.html
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Re: Doc modding Marantz imperial 7
Nothing much done here lately, harvest is upon us.
I have been faffing with the drivers themselves. There are a few things to do with these cheap drivers that might improve them but without measurements to prove there might be no way of knowing. So why bother. They make sense to me in my head.
I removed all the soft mounting strips which are attached round the outside of the rubber surround where the mounting screw holes are located. These drivers must have been intended to be mounted from the inside of a cabinet via a removable panel. The strips looked like they could be touching the rubber surround which is not good.
After pulling the strips off it was evident that too much adhesive had been used and it was actually on the surround in several places on all the drivers. Luckily the black coloured adhesive is removable by rubbing ones nail up and down a few times and moving gradually all the way around the driver. These mounting strips are not really required so no loss and in my case I aim to make some domed aluminum rings like donuts slides in half that help blend in the driver to the curve of the spherical enclosure.
I have done a lot of reading regarding every aspect of speakers over the last few years with some of that time concentrated on doping and the drivers themselves. It became apparent that the surround can have a big effect on the operation of the driver especially the resonant frequency (Fs). Lower Fs gives the potential for the driver to produce lower bass frequencies and putting stuff on the surround raises Fs which is not what I want to do.
So anything on or touching the rubber roll surround is bound to modify the behaviour. Getting these strips out of the way and removing the excess glue which got squeezed out on to the edge of the surround can only be good imo. The original 5.25" doped drivers I got from RD before I started doping them myself had plastidip sprayed over the surround as well as the cone. Well I don't think that was a good idea so on all the drivers I have doped I masked off the surround.
I have been faffing with the drivers themselves. There are a few things to do with these cheap drivers that might improve them but without measurements to prove there might be no way of knowing. So why bother. They make sense to me in my head.
I removed all the soft mounting strips which are attached round the outside of the rubber surround where the mounting screw holes are located. These drivers must have been intended to be mounted from the inside of a cabinet via a removable panel. The strips looked like they could be touching the rubber surround which is not good.
After pulling the strips off it was evident that too much adhesive had been used and it was actually on the surround in several places on all the drivers. Luckily the black coloured adhesive is removable by rubbing ones nail up and down a few times and moving gradually all the way around the driver. These mounting strips are not really required so no loss and in my case I aim to make some domed aluminum rings like donuts slides in half that help blend in the driver to the curve of the spherical enclosure.
I have done a lot of reading regarding every aspect of speakers over the last few years with some of that time concentrated on doping and the drivers themselves. It became apparent that the surround can have a big effect on the operation of the driver especially the resonant frequency (Fs). Lower Fs gives the potential for the driver to produce lower bass frequencies and putting stuff on the surround raises Fs which is not what I want to do.
So anything on or touching the rubber roll surround is bound to modify the behaviour. Getting these strips out of the way and removing the excess glue which got squeezed out on to the edge of the surround can only be good imo. The original 5.25" doped drivers I got from RD before I started doping them myself had plastidip sprayed over the surround as well as the cone. Well I don't think that was a good idea so on all the drivers I have doped I masked off the surround.
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