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Dr Bunsen Honeydew wrote:I have had a builder look and he says it is an RSJ it is just that for that distance span it should be concrete as what happens is what is happening. He say there is no chance of the RSJ failing, the problem is the small amount of flex in steel. I want more opinions and cost estimates. For example would it be possible to put an upright steel box section joist or bar supporting the overhead joist between the two doors behind as they open outward.

That sounds like total bollocks. The Span across that door is too small for a steel to flex that much. Put a level on the top of the door frame and check if it is bowing. The advice to adjust the doors sounds closer to the mark to me. You can't use concrete if you have a brick transom.

Well I have looked at the regs (the builder showed me) and they say it is too long for a RSJ or steel lintel, it should be concrete. But Am happy to look at any alternatives, including upward bar which seems the least intrusive in terms of dismantling, any opinions on that. If the RSJ is supported from below in the centre then problem over.

Gap 2.86m bricks to bricks.

Well mine do NOT look like that from inside - it looks like something went seriously wrong.
Upward bar or it look like you will need 2 one between doors and one between right window and the doors ( looking from inside)
as a temporary solution should work if it will not get in the way of actually using the doors
and as a bonus you could pick up new sport - very fashionable those days I was told - pole dancing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgv8VtsqnjI

This may give a pointer.

http://iglintels.com/lintels/selecting- ... ct-lintel/

Lintels up to 4m+ specified. I assume your opening is about 8-9 ft only. Concrete is actually unsuitable for longer spans due its weight. One possibility is that the RSJ installed isn't of sufficient strength but unlikely. Is there signs of cracks in plaster and external brickwork? You need RSJ for long spans not concrete (other way round to what you have been told).

Well now I am confused.

Zebbo is a pro builder are any of you pro builders or just giving opinion.

Well I am not for sure ;] and by upward bar I was thinking more of a vertical pole or two Telescopic Steel Pole type hence the link

Doc
I'm not a builder but I am a professional engineer and used to run a maintenance gang.

If the coving on the inside is plaster and it not cracked, it isn't moving. The brick joints look sound and so that's probably not moving.

I'd bite the bullet and get a professional structural engineer in to take a look. If it's a quick job and you don't get a report, it may not cost a lot.

The other thing is that it may be the doors, but quite how defeats me. Are the windows OK? They are units in a frame with bottom spacers to allow the PVC to expand and contract without breaking the glass. If they are bowing (and it doesn't look like it from the reflections) then there isn't huge movement in the frame either.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Dr Bunsen Honeydew wrote:Well now I am confused.

Zebbo is a pro builder are any of you pro builders or just giving opinion.

I did study building in early twenties and take an interest especially so I don't get ripped off. If you knock two rooms into one by removing a load bearing wall what do you use to support the house above? Answer a substantial RSJ. My last house had same type of construction and had steels above patio doors and several windows of approx 8ft+ wide. It could be a dodgy RSJ or more likely bad door unit installation. Maybe too tight and some tiny movement is affecting the frame (should be some room for expansion (a few mm's). The frame should be surrounded by a flexible seal or often just a bead of silicon sealant to fill the gap. Something has obviously moved slightly but even if the steel settled by a couple mm it should not be forcing the frame down so doors stick. It could be the doors just need adjusting which can be done at the hinges. Suggest get double gazing firm to look at it before assuming something more serious.If you had the bowing or sinking to the degree suggested I would expect to see cracking in the mortar externally.

Classicrock, (and others), are correct, that IS a load of bollocks. RSJ's are used over huge spans, much greater than yours. The problem with using an RSJ on a cavity wall is that you then have to support the outer skin separately and you would also need to fit a cavity tray above the lintel to expel any moisture to the outside. You should never see the sort of movement showing in your pictures inside or out. Whatever they have done in this installation, it is an extremely poor job I'm afraid and it needs looking at ASAP. The most straightforward product to use in this situation is a proper cavity lintel which are available off the shelf from companies like Catnic. They fully support both skins of wall and are designed to provide a built in dpc/cavity tray, job done. You really need to get an engineer to specify what size it would need to be as there are variables such as - are the upstairs floor joists built into that wall ??

i work at pj steel construction,we normally just weld a flat plate to the underside/top of a beam to span the width,i dont know the maths or calculations mind you i just weld lol