Goodmans Magnum K Refurb and Modification (part 2)

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

What image???

You have to host pictures in a site such as tinypics and then post the IMG link in the body of the post here.

[Ronin]

Hi Tim,

Thank you for for making the time to up-date your thread.I will have a good study of the picture.

I can see that you have left the "Resistor" in place,was there any specific reason for this.Are all the wires to the right joined up together.

Would I be right in saying,the L-pads are basically " Variable resistors" and thats all? As I prefer the L-pads at full tilt +(no resistance?) removing them and not replacing them would basically give me the same desired effect.

Cheers

Ronin

[istari_knight]

A pot (potentiometer) or rheostat is a single, variable resistive element. An L-pad is two resistive elements; one in parallel with the load and the other in series with it.

From memory when I had Magnum's I just bypassed them which was fine... The greatest improvement came when I replaced the capacitors with basic film's, I hate to say it but "night and day difference"

[Daniel Quinn]

A pot (potentiometer) or rheostat is a single, variable resistive element. An L-pad is two resistive elements; one in parallel with the load and the other in series with it.

From memory when I had Magnum's I just bypassed them which was fine...The greatest improvement came when I replaced the capacitors with basic film's, I hate to say it but "night and day difference"

Is that because it took 12 hours

[istari_knight]

I'm not that slow

I measured the originals once removed, all were a good 40% out of spec.

[Ronin]

Thank you for the simple explanation istari_knight.I will also do further research on these 3 types to get an even greater understanding.

From memory when I had Magnum's I just bypassed them which was fine... The greatest improvement came when I replaced the capacitors with basic film's, I hate to say it but "night and day difference"

So,I can take the L-pad away and just join the wires together.

Forgive my ignorance ,but what do you mean by "basic films".



Ronin



I

[istari_knight]

You don't need to remove the L-pads, just solder a link between pins 2 & 3. That way they will behave as though the L-pads are fully open.

By basic films I meant inexpensive polypropylene capacitors such as Solen's or Jantzen CrossCaps, available from falconacoustics and audio-components.co.uk respectively.

[Ronin]

You don't need to remove the L-pads, just solder a link between pins 2 & 3. That way they will behave as though the L-pads are fully open.

I think I would prefer to take them out of circuit,is this possible.

I will also attempt to measure the existing capacitors for replacing.

Thanks for the advise on were to buy the caps.


Ronin

[istari_knight]

Fair enough, I suppose the left over holes are handy for fitting binding posts ! Its been a long time since I did mine & I didn't take any pictures or make any notes

Here is an L-pads pinout:



So to completely remove: The wires going to pins 2 & 3 should be connected together and insulated to prevent shorts [they are +] and the wires connected to pin 1 should be connected to the black or - binding post/input terminal.

Does that make sense ? If not, post up a photo of the crossover & I'll modify it to show what needs doing.

[Ronin]

Sorry,still not sure

here's a before and after I done the new binding posts.