OK I did the search for you, so :-
The official doping materials are hard to get but you can improvise. You need a material that damps the cone but doesn't completely dry out and become brittle. Some rubber based glues that are easily available perform this function. A good one is Bison available from Rapid Electronics quite often you only need to apply it to near the centre of the cone, spread it with your finger, obviously put the speaker on its back before you do it. After two hours you will be able to listen, if still not right then spread a layer over the cone area, listen again. When you are happy spray over the whole cone with Performix Plasti Dip aerosol. If you have a minor problem then the Performix may be all you need.
Experiment, use your ears and trust them, have fun.
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Please everyone before you ask use the search and the archive, that is what it is there for.
Goodmans Magnum K (part 1)
- Dr Bunsen Honeydew
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Re: Goodmans Magnum K (part 1)
Experiment, use your ears and trust them, have fun. (Doc)
What Van Gough's mate said to him, Just before pouring Van a large glass of Absinthe for a nightcap .....
What Van Gough's mate said to him, Just before pouring Van a large glass of Absinthe for a nightcap .....
- Dr Bunsen Honeydew
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Re: Goodmans Magnum K (part 1)
Excuse the very late reply.
I've lived with these speakers without the internal acoustic wadding for some time now. The next step is to line them with steel. I also want to take out these L-pads (I know, I've asked about this before and been given some advise from Doc, but now it’s time to do it, I want to make absolutely sure I’m doing correctly (I don’t want to damage these lovely speakers) and I’m trying to make it a Dummies guide, so I want to take baby steps.
I know I got to measure the L-pad out of circuit and find some suitable wire wound resistors to put in place
I've been liaising with Tim (another owner of these speaker on this forum) who has successfully completed the alterations to remove the L-pads, but it looks like his speaker crossover is different from mine. One L-pad has a resistor were mine has none.
Here’s picture of the crossovers (Tims on the right)
I’ve taken some measurements with my multimeter.
I assume the + symbol means fully open with least resistance? And the – means resistance applied?
Here are some pic’s.
Am I measuring correctly? Do these numbers make sense?
Can anyone advise.
Thanks
Ronin
I've lived with these speakers without the internal acoustic wadding for some time now. The next step is to line them with steel. I also want to take out these L-pads (I know, I've asked about this before and been given some advise from Doc, but now it’s time to do it, I want to make absolutely sure I’m doing correctly (I don’t want to damage these lovely speakers) and I’m trying to make it a Dummies guide, so I want to take baby steps.
I know I got to measure the L-pad out of circuit and find some suitable wire wound resistors to put in place
I've been liaising with Tim (another owner of these speaker on this forum) who has successfully completed the alterations to remove the L-pads, but it looks like his speaker crossover is different from mine. One L-pad has a resistor were mine has none.
Here’s picture of the crossovers (Tims on the right)
I’ve taken some measurements with my multimeter.
I assume the + symbol means fully open with least resistance? And the – means resistance applied?
Here are some pic’s.
Am I measuring correctly? Do these numbers make sense?
Can anyone advise.
Thanks
Ronin
- Dr Bunsen Honeydew
- Posts: 30758
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