HiFi Subjectivist ¦ Audio Forum ¦ NVA User Group

Looking for some hints as I think I have lost the ability to solder. Previously I doc modded a pair of Goodman 8s and have decided to modify them to allow bi-amping with my A80s and A30. I have installed the sockets but when trying to desolder the ones already installed not a lot happened and when I tried to tin the ends of the new sockets the solder ran off and would not stick.
Could my iron be wonky? I am hoping so and any recommendations for a new one. Just for light use.
Cheers.

When the iron is hot try wiping the bit on some wet kitchen roll to see if it will clean up. You may need to clean the new terminals using some wet / dry or a file.

Ran off the solder bit or off the cable. Which ever then needs cleaning as is contaminated. All solder bits need cleaning or replacing if iron and gone a bit rusty from lack of use. Some times a light file will clean it up but will also damage to the point of being useless if done too much.

The bit is copper and the solder ran off the socket end. I will clean up the bit and try rubbing up the socket end but I think the iron is not heating up enough as it was not melting the original joint. Maybe time for a new iron.

If the solder melts onto the bit then the iron is OK. Copper bits still need cleaning.

If you have a non temp controlled iron than you really need a soldering station if you are going to solder regularly. These used to be expensive but now cheap Chinese ones are here. For constant use they only last a year, but are still cheaper that way. I use one and it lasts about a year and I throw it away and get a new one, but I always keep some sort of spare that is still working.

Very cheap

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/13124879 ... 108&ff19=0

The one I use

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Xytronic-T197 ... 1c437e0285

You also need a wee blob of molten solder on the tip to kick-start the melting of the solder on the joint.

Just get a new iron. I was having the same problem as you. Replaced the iron and all is now tickety-boo.

Hope you're not using lead free "silver" solder as this is utter shite..!

Always go for a tin/lead solder as it's far easier to use and de-solder.

Alfi.

Thanks all. New iron on its way from rapidonline. Will give an update but probably not soon as I am taking the grandsons on holiday(wish me luck) to SUNNY Aviemore.

I was using lead free solder. Next time I'll get some dangerous stuff. Anyway the new iron arrived and it did the job. But I now wish I had left it alone as I think I have bust my speakers.
The story -- I desoldered the leads then thought I should make sure that I don't get the LF and HF mixed. So I checked using a meter( reading through bass unit and no reading through the crossover for mid and tweeter). I then thought I would double check and as I didn't want to use my good amps and didn't want to root out an old amp I decided to try something I spotted on the net. You touch flying leads from a 1.5 battery to the terminals and the speaker should move out a bit. It worked with the woofers so I thought I would try through the crossover to check the other drives. It gave a little crackle but now the mids and tweeters don't work.
I am not exactly what is gone but I hope I haven't burnt out the 2 mids and 2 tweeters. I vaguely remembered ,after the fact, the Doc saying something about amps going into DC and cooking drive units but too late now.
Any ideas on how to salvage the situation. They are old speakers (Goodman system 8s) so replacements might be difficult.